French Neoclassical theatre was commonly associated with
“grandiosity” (Study Guide: French Neoclassical Theatre). Everything
from the stages, scenery, and costumes were excessive and had
fantastical style. According to William D. Howarth, the author of French
Theatre in the Neo Classical Era, "costume generally followed
contemporary fashion, though with some concessions to historical
verisimilitude, if not accuracy, for characters from ancient or
mythological times." In most cases, providing the costumes was the
actor's responsibility. However, if a character required certain prop
pieces, such as turbans and cloaks, the company provided them (Howarth).
Neoclassical women’s clothing and costumes had some influence
from early Greek periods. Many dresses emulated the Greek drape line and
had trains that were picked up and carried. They often carried long
scarves or shawls as accessories that were made out of rich fabrics like
cashmere. Women completed their outfits “with decorated mobcaps,
turbans or bonnets with feathers.” Sheer material was most commonly used
to make women’s garments. Other common fabrics included mull, linen,
lawn, silk, gauze, tulle, taffeta and moire (Neoclassical Costume and
Clothing).
Neoclassical men's costumes and clothing had lots of
volume and gave the wearer lots of body and shape. Men were commonly
seen wearing neutral breeches, made of wool or satin, paired with
colorful waistcoats. Tailcoats were also popular during the period. Most
male garments were made of woolen fabrics. If you were a wealthy man
though, coats were made of fine fabrics like satin, silk and cashmere
(Neoclassical Costume and Clothing).
Definitions of common garments worn during the French Neoclassical period:
Chemise
Dress - high-waisted dress with a low draw-string neck, worn with a
ribbon sash. Sleeves were either long and tight or short and melon
shaped.
Hessian Boots - short riding boots worn by Hessian mercenaries
hired to fight the American colonists. These black boots had no cuffs
but were distinguished by a heart-shaped curve at the front top edge
which was decorated with a tassel that hung from the dip in the heart.
“M” Coat Collar- unique “M” shape cut into men’s coat collars during
this period.
Pantaloons- fitted calf-length pants made of elastic
knitted fabric. Eventually became ankle length, often with stirrups
under the foot. These pants had a fall front opening. Small fob-pockets
for watches were placed at either side of the openings, close to the
waistband.
Pelisse- a close-fitting, sleeved coat-dress with a
high neck and matching belt. It opened all the way up the front.
Poke
Bonnet - a bonnet with a small crown at back and a wide, rounded front
brim which extended from the top of the head to beyond the face.
Quizzing Glass - A small, fashionable handheld devise used to see
objects more clearly. The lens could be circular or oblong and the
handle could be very ornate.
Redingote – A fitted, long princess cut
coat worn by women. It was buttoned at the top while the bottom would be
left open. It was originally trimmed with large buttons.
Reticule/Indispensible- a small, drawstring purse, worn at the wrist.
Most fashionable Neoclassical dresses of the time could not have pockets
due to their slim design.
Spencer - a very short, waist-length jacket
with long, tight sleeves and often trimmed with fur worn outdoors with
the chemise dress.
Steeplehat - predecessor of the top hat, it was made
with a narrow, slightly rolling brim and a high crown, smaller at the
top becoming wider around the head.
Tailcoats- the introduction of the
tailcoat brought about two distinctive styles. The claw-hammer coat was
the colloquial name for the swallow-tailed coat because its bottom edges
were shaped like a hammer. The bobtail coat had shorter tails and
rounded.
Topboots- high, solid-legged or laced boot of the 1780’s and
1790’s, of dark grain leather with tight, turn over tips that showed a
lighter or contrasting dyed color.
Wrapped Cravat- a huge cravat wound
high around the neck to hold up the shirt collar over the chin with the
ends tied in a bow in front. The excess fabric was then draped
over the shirtfront and tucked inside the waistcoat.
