Costumes in Neoclassical French Theatre

French Neoclassical theatre was commonly associated with “grandiosity” (Study Guide: French Neoclassical Theatre). Everything from the stages, scenery, and costumes were excessive and had fantastical style. According to William D. Howarth, the author of French Theatre in the Neo Classical Era, "costume generally followed contemporary fashion, though with some concessions to historical verisimilitude, if not accuracy, for characters from ancient or mythological times." In most cases, providing the costumes was the actor's responsibility. However, if a character required certain prop pieces, such as turbans and cloaks, the company provided them (Howarth).

Neoclassical women’s clothing and costumes had some influence from early Greek periods. Many dresses emulated the Greek drape line and had trains that were picked up and carried. They often carried long scarves or shawls as accessories that were made out of rich fabrics like cashmere. Women completed their outfits “with decorated mobcaps, turbans or bonnets with feathers.” Sheer material was most commonly used to make women’s garments. Other common fabrics included mull, linen, lawn, silk, gauze, tulle, taffeta and moire (Neoclassical Costume and Clothing).

Neoclassical men's costumes and clothing had lots of volume and gave the wearer lots of body and shape. Men were commonly seen wearing neutral breeches, made of wool or satin, paired with colorful waistcoats. Tailcoats were also popular during the period. Most male garments were made of woolen fabrics. If you were a wealthy man though, coats were made of fine fabrics like satin, silk and cashmere (Neoclassical Costume and Clothing).

Definitions of common garments worn during the French Neoclassical period:

Chemise Dress - high-waisted dress with a low draw-string neck, worn with a ribbon sash. Sleeves were either long and tight or short and melon shaped.

Hessian Boots - short riding boots worn by Hessian mercenaries hired to fight the American colonists. These black boots had no cuffs but were distinguished by a heart-shaped curve at the front top edge which was decorated with a tassel that hung from the dip in the heart.

“M” Coat Collar- unique “M” shape cut into men’s coat collars during this period.

Pantaloons- fitted calf-length pants made of elastic knitted fabric. Eventually became ankle length, often with stirrups under the foot. These pants had a fall front opening. Small fob-pockets for watches were placed at either side of the openings, close to the waistband.

Pelisse- a close-fitting, sleeved coat-dress with a high neck and matching belt. It opened all the way up the front.

Poke Bonnet - a bonnet with a small crown at back and a wide, rounded front brim which extended from the top of the head to beyond the face.

Quizzing Glass - A small, fashionable handheld devise used to see objects more clearly. The lens could be circular or oblong and the handle could be very ornate.

Redingote – A fitted, long princess cut coat worn by women. It was buttoned at the top while the bottom would be left open. It was originally trimmed with large buttons.

Reticule/Indispensible- a small, drawstring purse, worn at the wrist. Most fashionable Neoclassical dresses of the time could not have pockets due to their slim design.

Spencer - a very short, waist-length jacket with long, tight sleeves and often trimmed with fur worn outdoors with the chemise dress.

Steeplehat - predecessor of the top hat, it was made with a narrow, slightly rolling brim and a high crown, smaller at the top becoming wider around the head.

Tailcoats- the introduction of the tailcoat brought about two distinctive styles. The claw-hammer coat was the colloquial name for the swallow-tailed coat because its bottom edges were shaped like a hammer. The bobtail coat had shorter tails and rounded.

Topboots- high, solid-legged or laced boot of the 1780’s and 1790’s, of dark grain leather with tight, turn over tips that showed a lighter or contrasting dyed color.

Wrapped Cravat- a huge cravat wound high around the neck to hold up the shirt collar over the chin with the ends tied in a bow in front. The excess fabric was then draped over the shirtfront and tucked inside the waistcoat.